As soon as you cross the border between Hungary and Slovakia, some differences stand out in front of your eyes, the first one being the quantity of skodas (old and new models) circulating on the streets. But there is more: the scars from the communist era become more present, you sense an economy still struggling to get back on track (with the low prices being its clearer indicator), but nonetheless you surprise yourself with a warm and smiley people, particularly for eastern Europe standards. One thing, though, remains exactly the same: the breathtaking natural landscape.
We have limited our visit to the countries west region, which remains rather rural. On our way in, we have passed along Kosice (west biggest city), haeading to Michalovce (2nd, after Kosice). Even though we were only able to properly visit the second one, the impression gotten from both cities was very similar: the first two eastern, communist type cities we crossed on our journey. The landscape is dominated by tall, all alike, rather old apartment blocks, a couple of greyish imposing skyscrapers and its streets displaying a typical cocktail of rural old citizens and a young urban, more western-like generation, with the ones around 40/50 bridging the gap between the first two. Surprisingly though, in none of them grey is the dominant colour, as one would at first expect. Despite almost all old, the buildings are rather colourful, again specially if one puts things in perspective.
One aspect that as well stands out is the emigration phenomenon: any family has at least someone who is or was an emigrant, sharing, in this particular s strong similitude with the Portuguese: they go abroad looking for better working conditions, but with the solid idea of returning to its homeland. One aspect that caught my curiosity is the attitude of the younger generations, here very apart from the Portuguese ones: all the younger people I met has already worked or works abroad, either just for a summer job (this being one of the most popular means to finance their travelling abroad), or for longer periods, often connected with studying abroad experiences.
Our day and a half in Slovakia were mostly spent at the countries most appealing part: the countryside. My two perfect hosts, Chabi and Peter, invited me to a wonderful cottage, located on a tiny village laying on the banks of the Lake ???. This artificial lake built in the 50’s, the biggest in the country, soon became one of the biggest summer attractions not only in Slovakia, but in the whole east, with its peak on the 70´s. Still today it remains very popular both to the older and younger generations, attracted by the quiet and relaxed days by the lake and the lively nightlife provided by the local pubs and discos.
Right after our arrival in Michalovce, we were driven to Peter’s family cottage, with a short pit stop by the lake for a nice beer (and 70% local plum liquor shot…). Once there, our hard way of life was back: hanging at the swimming pool, having a nice BBQ and drinking. Just the boys: Peter, Chabi, Jan (Peter best friend, as well known as Michalovce’s Justin TimbarlainJ ) and Me. Nice music, nice food, even better drinks and perfect mood. It didn’t take long to get us quite drunk. Beautiful thing: not even midnight and we were all ready to hit the pillow. Surprisingly for them, I’ve decided to delight myself with one of those little pleasures of life I so much cherish: to fall asleep under the stars, on a lovely net balancing gently on the trees. How nice! Just moved under the roof around 5, when I though the insects had had enough of a feast with their “Portuguese Bufet”.
Next morning we woke up at nine, feeling like we have slept till one. This is something we Mediterraneans will never be able to accomplish: party soon, sleep soon and fully enjoin your next day. But of course, the non-Mediterraneans will never grasp the pleasure of the “dolce fare niente” between the beach and a late night out, cheeling out over a drink and degusting a wonderful and long meal. Well, you can’t have it all, right?
After a quiet morning at the cottage, we met another Slovakian friend part of our “London party crew”, Vlado, for a traditional Slovakian meal. Here I highlight the delicious spicy tomato soup, only toped by the company. In the afternoon, I was taken in a tour around Michalovce, followed by another evening full of stress by the pool, again “sacrificing” ourselves into another BBQ. Following the local traditions, at 8/9 we were already hitting the pub for our warm up, followed by a great night out at a local disco. If any further proves would be needed, I was then able to confirm the information I was provided with by a Maltese friend of mine, very keen on numbers in fact:: according to EUROSTAT, 6 in each 5 Slovakian woman are indeed very, very attractive and sensual. At 1am we were in bed, not feeling like we have missed anything. Three hours later, Le Deuch and I were sadly saying goodbye to Peter and Jan (Chabi had already left), starting our crazy journey till Bucharest.
Guys, Thank you for the huge time! You were amazing! March plans to visit Porto have to come true and I only hope that by then I’ll manage to “pay back” on such an hospitable way!
After a first week with many km’s on us, Le Deuch will finally be granted some days of (well deserved) rest, while we join Isa, Nico and Noel (Isa’s boyfriend and mother) on a trip which will take us a bit all over Romania. Unfortunately, Emin, my Muslim brother, will only join us later on this week, as he got stuck in his office. Therefore, for the time being, the poor French will be left alone with me.
