Istanbul

Istanbul! To leave it? The hardest moment of our journey. To write about it? This blog’s hardest task. Fact: I fell in love with this city, my favourite in the whole of the World I’ve been given the chance of visiting so far (Porto apart, as this is a whole different story). Question: was it love at first sight or was this feeling born long before I first laid my eyes on the Capital of the former Ottoman Empire?

My love for Istanbul is inherently bound to the love I have for my Muslim Brother Emin. How much of my affection for the city is a simple reflex of the love I have for this unique guy is a question I doubt I will ever be able to answer. Indeed, in the beginning there was only Emin. During the year we spent together in Brussels a curiosity about each others’ country’s history, culture and traditions grew along with our friendship. Through “our endless (mine in general) philosophical speeches”, our adventures in the delicious Turkish and Portuguese cuisines, through our constant expeditions to the “Turkish and Portuguese quarters of the town”, this curiosity quickly evolved to a sincere admiration. Slowly, even our daily routines found themselves “invaded” by once exotic and strange rituals (hey, who needs expresso when you can have a “çok sikerli Türk Kahve”?). Long before any of us set feet in each of the cities, Istanbul and Porto were already, to some extent, our homes as well. Prejudice was overcome: we were “open to the other side”, ready to admire them with our eyes and minds wide open. This being important when visiting any new city, it’s almost a “sine qua non” condition when the new city is the one once known as Constantinople.
Nonetheless, Istanbul is way too proud to “borrow” feelings from anyone. Besides, it can be quite overwhelming on its own. Don’t let yourself be deceived by the first impact: usually it’s not a pretty sight. Immense (some would say endless), crowded, chaotic, dirty - those are among the most popular adjectives newcomers dedicate it. No, Istanbul is no “one night stand”. It is doomed to be the love of your life, demanding commitment to fully perceive its magnitude, blooming in front of your eyes only when you realise its perfection lies within the thin balance of all its flaws. Due to Emin, I was lucky enough to arrive there with my “first date” already scheduled.

“A gate to a new and admirable World, whether you are coming from the east or from the west”. That’s the best image I was so far able to come up with to describe Istanbul. What else could one expect from the only capital in the world lying on two continents rather than an immense melting pot? What rather than a place where the east and the west live hand in hand in any corner, sharing not only the present, as well as the wounds of the past. As if teaching the whole world a lesson which has Aya Sofia as its most perfect metaphor?
Istanbul is not an expensive city. Rather, one of expensive habits. Here the “how” is more relevant than the “what”, the “ritual” rather than its content. In Istanbul, more important than what you do is, beyond any doubt, how you do it.

But, can one actually put Istanbul into words? How to define the architectural chaos from which the breathtaking view of the old town emerges when overlooked from Haydarpasa train station? The unique ritual of crossing the Bosporus by ferry, breathing the cold morning breeze while holding a hot cup of tea in your two closed hands? The constant appeals to your smell while exploring its narrow, dodgy, nevertheless irresistible alleys? The feeling of losing yourself in the Old Bazar, wondering around as if the clock stops ticking when you enter its walls? How to explain you end up finding yourself, at some point, drinking your Raki with pleasure? No, Istanbul cannot be defined. Istanbul is to be lived, experienced with each one of the 5 senses!

Yes, I fell in love with Istanbul and the only things that eases the pain of leaving it is the certainty of my return!

Our journy under the "Sunlight"

Dear all:

Today an article on our adventure came out in Sol, a nationalwide Portuguese weekly newspaper. With the report out and our new adventure towards Beijing and the Olympics launched, we finally find the motivation to do something we were long due: to close this Blog.

On the next couple of days, the 3 remaining posts will be published, Istanbul, The Journey and the plans of the new adventure being the topics. Stay tuned and should you have any question, suggestion or support for the Beijing Adventure, feel free to get in touch(tiagomalves@gmail.com).

Love,
Tiago and Le Deuch

My Muslim Brother takes the floor!

Tiago, meu irmão,

Once again I had the opportunity to feel like "at home" by your visit: We continued to cheer up our little moments, kept on our endless (yours in general J) philosophical speeches and ate and drunk limitless as we experienced everywhere in Europe. Not mentioning the kebabs, even we had a Francesinha at home, but with some raki flavor this time.

I am glad that you felt the amazing atmosphere of Ali Sami Yen, this little and old stadium where we could shout “filhos do dragao” and even dared to show off the Portuguese flag with dangerous colors in there J I am happy that you liked it; I was nearly sure that you would.

And me, I had the opportunity to drive your 2CV, that amazing toy, on the hills of Istanbul. Most of the times we had difficulties to ascend the hills but the most dangerous was to descend from that hills with its breaks almost “kaput”! I remember once the following dialogue:
TMA – "Emiiiin, stop! Use the breaaaks!"
ES – "I am man, I am!" :)

It was really marvelous to drive the deuche! When you drive it, you can feel the people looking at you, first with a pity but then with a huge sympathy. And once again, you made real a dream of mine, to drive a foreign car, this time in my own city. Well, I am happy and glad to welcome you in Istanbul and I will always be!

Porto – Istanbul, two sides of Europe, very far from each other. Really? I don’t think so!

Beijos,
Emin

P.S. By the way, I know a place in Brussels where you can eat rips as much as you can. Would like to join me by foot?:)

The road finally came to an end. Only for now, though.

We couldn't have ended this journey in any other fashion: 3 days of pure adventure on the road! I'll write you about that later on, but must warn you all there won't be enough words to describe it. Guess only Mr. Magalhães (the Deuch Mechanich) will have a close call after taking a look at the tired little one.

Home, safe and sound. Can hardly believe the journey had finally come to its end. HUGE, HUGE time we had on the road, to say the least! After a long desired portuguese meal with my parents and some of my father mates, talking nothing else but about my journey, a nice long shower and some hours at the office (at least to let them know I still didn't forget where it is), I'm on my way to the big match: Porto vs Liverpool! To make the transitions more gradual, I'll be meeting my brother Luis in 5 minutes, to warm up with some lager. Nhamy, Super Bock!!! Am missing that as well!

The journey is over, but not the adventure. During the returning trip, the Deuch and I already started cooking the next chapter! Ah, the road is over, but not this blog. Keep posted, as there is still many things to share with you!

Love, now finally from my home Porto,
TMA and the surviving Deuch!
!

The return, at last!

All good things come to an end. The great ones manage to live up a little longer, but still are condemn to the same faith.

After streching our adventure further than its own limits, this afternoon we will finally start our way back. To finish in stylle, we have the longest, most challenging and, therefore, most exciting journey on the road. From Bled to Porto, crossing Italy, France and Spain, always through secondary roads. Over 2500 km, to be enjoyed one by one, on a journey where rush won't be part of our vocabulary. In case you are interested in knowing our path more in detail, take a look at the following link:
http://www.viamichelin.com/viamichelin/int/dyn/controller/Itineraires?options=1&strStartMerged=&strStartAddress=&strStartCityCountry=EUR&strDestMerged=&strDestAddress=&strDestCityCountry=EUR#startLocid=31NDIxOTcxMGNORFl1TXpZMk56VT1jTVRRdU1UQTROakk9&destLocid=31NDF4dnIxMGNOREV1TVRVd05UYz1jTFRndU5qRXdNalU9&step1Locid=32NDFvbGU1MzMxMDAxMGNORFl1TURZME9UUT1jTVRNdU1qTXdOekk9&step2Locid=31NDF3NjQxMGNOREV1T0RBM01EUT1jTFRZdU56VTVOVFk9&vh=CAR&distance=km&strVehicle=0&intItineraryType=6&devise=1.0EUR&isAvoidFrontiers=false&isFavoriseAutoroute=false&isAvoidPeage=true&isAvoidVignette=false&isAvoidLNR=false&carTypeHidden=Citadine&caravaneHidden=false&typeCarbHidden=essence&autoConso=6.8&villeConso=6&routeConso=5.6&carbCost=1.3&dtmDeparture=15/09/2007

We expect to be home on Monday, which would mean less than 24 hours delay. But by this time you all know as well as I do deadlines and plans are not exactly binding for us when on the road. As always, we will make it our way: taking our time and no sparing any oportunity to make our adventure even more enjoyable!

Love,
TMA and Le Deuch

Two Aussies and The Two Horses

There was this man on a crazzy road trip! who spent too much time with us smart and intelligent aussies, was on this meeting this portugease man had been transformed into a true fair dinkum aussie bloke !!!

One of our great adventures was a road trip to awesome lake Bled. The day started with us all waking up a little on the sick side after a big night out at a house party where a lot of “blowing” went on (editors’ note – just a card game, you sick minds lol).So there we were trying to pack two big backpacks two little ones and all of Tiago’s crap into his little rocket. It took a while but we got there in the end.

The drive out of Ljubljana was awesome. There was so much talent to look at, it was great. I think I fell in love at least 5 times. Bled being a one and a half hour drive took us about three and a half hours taking in consideration that the car was full and we were driving on all the back roads to avoid all the tolls (hey we are cheep ass backpackers ) and we were so hungry. We managed to find a little café, me and Rob ordered a mixed grill and Tiago had to go frogs legs. I’ve never had frog before so I had to have a go and hey it was nice it tastes a bit like fish mixed with chicken. While I, Rob was fast asleep enjoying my restaurant meal, Tiago the sneaky little bugger was filming one enjoying his sleep!

So off we are again me, Luke, Tiago(casper) and the two horse rocket!! Was so amazed this flying machine was at least doing 81! But then it was Portugease music time as we were cruising down to bled and hmmm not sure on this mans taste on music. But don’t worry with a few back fires of two horse rocket we had all the ladies attention. Thank God for that because that music wasn’t doing to much for our mission!

But we arrived in this beautiful place, but then it came to drinking time once again hmmm yep one thing this maan does love is a beer! Can drink beer! And that brings us to the end of our adventure sitting here in cafe looking over the beautiful lake having our last meal together, reflecting on the amazing adventure we have just had.

Ok last words about Tiago, aka casper: CAN DRINK! CAN TALK! CAN PULL! CAN TRAVEL! ~

Thanks mate, we have had a great time and have had lots of fun.

Safe travels mate. Keep the good times rolling buddy and will c u in Porto!!

Hvala,

Luke and Rob

P.S. - Thanks two horses for the road trip!

The third companion has the floor!

After a great journey in the company of two close friends (Tiago and The Deuch), the return to Portugal was the end of one of the most unforgetable trips in my life. One full of adventures and hilarious moments!!

For the record remain the people, the cities, all the places we visited and met. Connecting each place we had the sky right above us, kms and kms of road ahead of us and the guarantee The Deuch was sharing with us the unique pleasure of being on the road. True, we were always dependent on his “humours”: sometimes refusing to “slow down”, “holding” strongly to his will of accelerate, sometimes refusing to make a steeper uphill. Nothing that the right dose of tenderness and imagination couldn’t solve.That journey from Sofia till Pula was “an adventure in the adventure itself”, wasn’t it? :)

I hope you keep on having the time of your life and that the 2cv will show it’s best “humour” along the return trip.

Big Hug and see you in Portugal,
Nuno Casquilho Antunes

Still in Bled...

Ups... Not yet today that we got on the road again...

Met some cool Slovenians last night that literally "forbidden" me from leaving before being given the chance of trying some of the countries finest specialities. So, against my will (lol), I see myself "forced" to stay one more night and lay my fortune on the hands of "Slovenia's finest".

I sense I'm already at the "extra-time" of this adventure. The pressure to go back is growing stronger, no longer by the day, but by the hour. But in the end, this "pressure" only enables me to enjoy even more intensely this sense of freedom, something as strong and as overwhelming as I've never sensed before. By not departing today I do know that, even not putting into jeopardy any major thing, I did neglect some of the many obligations I have back home. I do apologise for it, sincerely. But as sincerely I tell you all: I could not neglect the ultimate obligation in everyone´s life, which is to be Happy. Believe my words. Now, as in the first or any other moment of this roadtrip, I am living happiness!

Don't worry still. I will be back. And much sooner then you might be suspecting by now. I know when that will happen, but won't tell you. Apparently when I make it public, the whole world organises itself with the sole purpose of ruining my plans. As I've already stretched my limits to their own limits, can't take that risk this time.

Love from someone literally having the time of his life,
TMA

P.S. - Luke and Rob just left back to Ljubljana to pick up a car and head to Croatia, just before heading to Munich for the October Fest. You can't imagine how hard it was to resist the call of keep on going along with them. Thank God I had Slovenia holding me back. I leave you with the post they wrote a couple of hours ago, together with the one written by Nuno, who is regretfully back in Porto. All this together with some pictures that can, however, only give you a glance from the incredible moment we shared.

Bled and than home, this time for real!

Hi Everyone:

No Mum, I doubt I'll make it for the game. Ruca simply knows me to well: the 2 horses are never the problem, the 3rd one is. lol

After a lovely day in Ljubljana in the company of two cool, cool Aussies, followed by a great night out which joined along 3 Slovenians and 3 Belgium, the plan in our mind could be clearer: will make it to Porto's match against Liverpool and change Saturday’s match for a last spot in our journey: Bled National Park, still in Slovenia. In about 20 minutes, me, the Deuch and the 2 Australians will hit the road towards our definitive last destination and big night out. A smooth 40 minutes ride, perfect warm up for the over 2500 km still separating us from home.

To go back home it’s proving to be much harder then we could ever imagined. This alone says everything on how awesome the whole adventure is proving to be.

Love,
TMA

Change of Plans

Hi Everyone:

We do know the clock is ticking for the end of our journey, but the adventurous spirit remains untouched! Indeed we planned only to sleep overnight in Ljubljana. But after a nice walk through the city center and the sensing both the city’s and our hostel cool, cool atmosphere, we simply feel in love for the place. Therefore, one extra-night is guaranteed.

I have been told nothing but good things about Slovenia’s Capital, but how much my expectations were exceeded. Beautiful city, impeccably neat, everything in place and a cool relaxed bohemian atmosphere, particularly sensed at the many bars and restaurants located along the river. Well, all this to say, we could not leave without taking a proper look, of course.

Still, I plan to go back lol.

Love,TMA

Day 33: Plan of the Day

Hello Everyone!

After two great days at Osijek, we start the last phase of out journey: the way home. From now on, it will be always coming west till the Miramar, by the Atlantic coast. Tonight we expect to make it till Ljubljana, where we will spend the night. As for the rest, the only expectation is to be in Porto by Saturday evening, hopefully managing to still pay a visit to a couple of friends along the way.

Love,
TMA

P.S. – We are already over 8000 km and the Deuch keeps on running smoother and smoother. Whatever happens little one, these 8000 no one will take away from us!

Post 4 - Romania

Always for different reasons, this was my third visit in Romania. First two were in December 2001 (Bucharest and Brasov) and August 2002 (Bucharest and the Black sea cost). Since then almost 6 years have passed. In the history of Romania, not just another 6 years: over this period, that followed the very agitated 90’ies, Romania took several key steps towards the adoption of a free market economy and a new geopolitical repositioning in the international scene. Just to name 2 of the most instantly recognizable events: the entry in Nato and the EU accession.

I was very curious to acknowledge the impact these last years had in Romania. Overall however, I must confess I was rather disappointed. At a first sight (and that’s pretty much what I was given the opportunity to have, a first glance), investment, both public and private foreign on, had a tremendous boom. Bucharest, even not being a particularly charming capital, remains impressive and growing as an even more cosmopolitan and international metropolis. Every step you take along the country, you feel the reconstruction of the Romanian’s obsolete infrastructures effort. But despite all this, the feeling one has is that Romania still has a long, long way ahead of itself.

“Scares of the communist Era”, here an expression I’ve used in prior posts. Well, in Romania, apparently some of the wounds are still bleeding. 2 are notorious, above all. As mentioned, the large majority of the country’s infrastructures (roads, railway, industrial park...) are simply obsolete or non-existing. The are only 2 highways, both close to Bucharest, with only one being worth the name. Along the country, roads are often in a poor condition, in the north you still can only rely on the ferry to cross the Danube while travelling the main national road and the railway system, even though crossing the whole country, is almost all archaic. I should however say that if it wasn’t for the massive financial support EU, I wonder how different the situation back home would be.

The other still open would, the mentality of its people, still very much shaped by the countries recent history. Don’t get me wrong: Romanians are in fact, kind and warm people. When in need of help, once can only complain of the often over helpfulness of the people you come across, even in the big cities. To have the experience of being hosted by a Romanian family (as I was for two times) gives you a whole new meaning to hospitability: they indeed insist in moving to the living-room to cede you the main bedroom. However, it his very difficult to “break the ice” and often you are constantly disencouraged along the process. In addition, nothing is for free in this country, not even after you have paid for it. I will always recall two statements on this matter. The first made by Iuli, answering to our astonished eyes seeing her fiercely fighting for every penny when infuriating any merchantman at Istanbul’s grand Bazar, though almost always taking her way: “you did not grew up having to fight for every little thing” she simply said. The second, the comment of my dear friend Titus after hearing from me this very same comment a couple of weeks ago: “My friend, here in Romania you need to fight for everything: for money, for a job, for woman, for your day-to-day things, for anything!” This couldn’t be truer. Don’t expect a smile, even when you are being served at a restaurant or a hotel. If you need to move a table or a chair, my advice is not to ask, but to simply do it. Otherwise you will most probably get a no for an answer. Sometimes, one gets the feeling they are still finding someone to blame for the hard life conditions they had to grown up on. Failing to find anyone, they apparently do it on everyone.

After being in the country with 3 very different perspectives, I would say Romania is definitely not the place to go as a tourist. Then your expectations will be very high, particularly on aspects which aren’t clearly the country’s strongest ones. You will end up paying the same fees as in any other western country (sometimes even more) and you will get a much worse service then the one you get back home, this while missing almost completely the many beauties of Romanian tradition. However, it can be a fascinating country to explore, this meaning on a more daring manner. Even though both roads and railway can often drive you mad, to adventure yourself on any of them can be a thrilling experience, as long as you are not on a tight deadline. Don’t miss the Danube’s Delta (paraphrasing Noel “MA-GNI-FI-QUE!!!”), where you can find nature, both fauna and flora, on a setting that will make you believe you are no longer in Europe, but somewhere in Africa. Take your time exploring the north of the country, mainly the lovely province of Moldova, surprisingly barely touched by the “ancient regime” and displaying many orthodox monasteries not to be missed. Then don’t be in a worry again to reach Bucharest crossing Transylvania through the Carpathians Mountains, amazing yourself with some breathtaking natural beauties you’ll find along the way and making a stop over in Brasov. End up with a good night out in Bucharest, where the offer won’t be for sure scarce. Well, make it two!

One final word, something I believe I already wrote before: clock it ticking to visit the Eastern European countries. For the good and (many, many times) for the bad, western way of life is advancing furiously, leaving little behind. That is mostly notorious on the big cities, where self-identity starts to be hard to find. I couldn’t stop remembering the comment my friend Titus made by my second visit in Romania, by 2002: “Life night is still quite wild here. But every year that goes by from the revolution, the fire is slowly cooling down”. Indeed, not only the attitude of people when going out, but life style in Eastern Europe in general is changing quite dramatically. If you still want to experience it, move quickly.

From Zagreb

Hi Everyone!

I'm writing from Zagreb, where I spent the day yesterday, few moments before going on my last incursion "off piste": about 250 km eastern to pay a visit to the many and crazy friends I have in Osijek. From there on, it will be always going west till Porto.

As I've been on the road most of the time, it has been hard to keep this blog up to date. I am still missing post on Romania, Istanbul, Sofia, the journey from Sofia till Pula and the Plitvice lakes. I know I write as much as I talk (meaning a lot) and therefore it is pretty much impossible for anyone but my mum to ready everything. I apologise, but this blog is purely selfish: in one hand, my selfish desire of being on the road but keep you all on the "back seat" and, on the other, to leave a diary of my experiences on the road, something I am sure will give me a huge pleasure reading again in some years time.

All this to say, I am writing not only for you, but as well for me. For the sake of the second goal, I can't leave any relevant memory "unposted".

Love,
TMA

From Pula, just the two of us again.

After an incredible journey between Sofia and Pula (close to 1100km) and after a farewell night slept in our loyal companian, Nuno cought his plain home at 11am this morning. The journey till Pula will have to be told in detail, so you can grasp how hilarious it was. For the moment, just the report of another hard goodbey.

Nuno was with us for the past 11 days, traveling through Romania, Bulgaria, Turquey, back in Bulgaria, crossing Serbia and finally Croatia. 11 days I am sure he will sherish as dearly as I will. His mechenic engeneering skills and his ability to profit from the trucks air cone's will be missed by The Deuch, but not as his company by me. Thanks a lot for all these great moments. This time at least, I am saying goodbey to someone who, despite living in a different city, will be sharing with me the same borders for the upcoming times.

My little one, here we are just the two of us on the road. Anyway, this adventure couldn't end up in any other way!!!

Next stop? Still open, but most probably the astonishing Plitvice Lakes, still in Croatia. We will keep you posted.

Love,
TMA

Day 25: Istanbul - Sofia

By far, the hardest day so far...

Painful, to say the least. That's how I can describe leaving Istanbul. To see Emin from the Deuch's mirror was by far the worse moment of our journey. The connection we have can never be put into words, can never be understood by anyone else but us. When leaving Isa in Romania, I still had Emin on my sight. This time just the absolute sureness that we will always keep bumping to each other was cuddling my sorrow. To little, way to little.

Poor Nuno had to put up with a mute driver in tears while we faced the cahotic morning traffic of Istanbul. That was so far the sole momment I wished I did not have to go on, that I could just stop and be home. With about 400 km's done, I passed the wheel to Nuno and for the first time in my life, took a nap on my little one, while he kept on his fights with the hilly bulgarian roads. Surprisingly nice, to fall a sleep under his engine's sound and with the fresh air coming from the open top. Just what I needed to recharge bateries and make my mind clear: even though after Istanbul we can only go down, we were so high over there that the valley is still far, farway. Around 18, there we were again on an unknown huge city, without a map, finding our away to the hostel with a smile in our faces. We are getting dam good at it!

We are back in business! Sofia: ready or not, here we go!

Love,
TMA

Day 25: Plan of the day

The first true heartbreaking goodby…As always, Istanbul was everything we were expecting and “çok, çok, çok” more. I’ll need to first digest you before being able to write about it. Right now, about to hit the pillow before “setting sales” to Sofia, I can only say I don’t even want to think how painful it will be to leave Emin once again…

Let’s focus on the plan for the day and leave the heavy crying for the morning. On our 25th day on the road, we will have a challenging test to the fresh new brakes of our little one. A little more than 600 km, till Sofia, starting around 6am in order to beat the awful traffic of Istanbul.

Love,

TMA

P.S. - Emin, as well The Deuch will miss your driving...

Le Deuch Goes Spa!

With over 5700km “on his legs”, Emin and İ decided it was time to spoil the little on a bit. Ok, it wasn’t a turkish bath, but at least the breaks should soon be working normaly (for 2 cheveaux standards, of course). Another Saturday morniıng taking care of Le Deuch, again making the day of everyone who came across him. To the question “do you know anything about the mechanıcs of this car?” we were answered “sure, we had one for repaırement here 10 years ago”. Reassuring enough for us.

We fınally found why Le Deuch wasn’t breaking too well: the breaks were long gone… (see the inclosed picture to understand the difference between the old and the news ones...). So, that should be it. No more talkıng, just enjoy the pics.

Time fort he Grand Bazar!!!!

Optum and Oscakal,
TMA

Welcome to the Ali Sami Yem! Welcome to Hell!!!

At last, I was there! The mythic Ali Sami Yem, home stadium of Galatasaray, side by side with Emin, wearing the two shirts offered by him with my name on the back and the Portuguese flag flying on the wind!

This was a moment I was looking forward since the days I’ve lived in Brussels. Every weekend and every Champions League/UEFA Cup match, Emin and I would pay a visit to the Turkish or Portuguese quarter of the town, in a ritual that included 3 of the things both of us most appreciate in life: good food, the two clubs from our hearts and each other’s company. We cried together when Gala was kicked out from the Champions; He was there preventing me from having an heart attack when Costinha scored on the last minute in Old Trafford; we religiously drunk a bottle of Port for each opponent Porto overtook in that unforgettable season, the one we won it all. In the end, my passion for Gala and his for Porto simply became another metaphor of our brotherhood. Last night I was finally given the chance to visit “home”.

The atmosphere lived in the stadium is everything one can expect and much more, absolutely different from the one that can be experienced in Dragão. Full house for the classic of world football between Gala and NK Slaven Belupo. Everyone is standing during the entire match, jumping, shouting, singing, clapping. One can only imagine how massive the impact players feel on the pitch must be. Porto fan’s are the most demanding ones I’ve ever seen. I will never forget the match we won 4-0 and still the team was “boooooed” heavily in the end of the 90 minutes. They are hard to please and the players have to earn every clap dedicated to them. Here, once in the pitch, we are no longer watching 11 man. Driven by sacred chants coming from the throat of Dionysius, the players are elevated to the status of Gods! Massive!

On the way home, I found myself surprisingly having a hard time remembering the match. In Porto I would have the entire 90 minutes movie in my head: every move, every play, everything. But here I could hardly remember how the goals had been. The conclusion seems evident: in Porto, I watch and appreciate the match. But here we are all too busy living the match to do so.

Love,
TMA

P.S. – To carry the Portuguese flag was an “experience inside the experience”. As colourwise our flag resembles the one from Kurdistan, the reaction of people was pretty much always the same: at first, looking with heavy angry eyes, not believing the dare their eyes were witnessing. After realising it was the Portuguese flags, the smiling and warm eyes were back, either joining us by shouting “Portocal, Portocal” and “Portó, Portó”, or just wondering if Gala had bought Postiga after all.

İSTANBUL!!!! Mıssion Accomplished!

And we made ıt! We are ın wonderful Istanbul, our destınatıon, our destıny. The Deuch fulfilled hıs part of our deal: to take me exactly where I wanted to go. Now ıt ıs up to me to force ourselves back to where I wıll have to be. Love, TMA and Le Deuch P.S. - What a feelıng to shout out loud ''NE MUTLU TURKUM DIYENE'' whıle crossıng the Bosporus and later when huggıng Emın, wearıng my Galatasaray shırt ın the core of Fenerbache Quarter!

Day 20: Plan of the day

Today, crapy net place, so no picture.

We are finally heading to Istanbul. 340 km with quite some question marks along the way, starting with my legendary companion. I am quite curious to see how will he cope with the road today. Usually, after struggling, he always comes in great shape, as if he would be saving his face. Just like he attacks a plan road after a painful steep up: coming after all the cars who overtook us.

But the little one has over 5300 km since we left Porto. As always, he will be the one deciding our pace. No worries buddy, Emin can wait a bit longer for us. The second and more worrying question mark is the Turkish border. We are again trying to leave EU and this time to get stuck in the border like it happened to us in Ukraine will be much more than a little disappointment. The biggest potential problem is the same: the car is not under my name, but my father's. We have a proxy from him now, but not the original, only a print out. I know by my own experience how much customs officers like shining stamps on the documents, therefore my concern.

But hopefully next time I'll be writing to you it will already be from old Constantinople! Emin, you Turkish bastard, the Christians are back in town! Looking forward so, so much to meet you in spectacular Istanbul, my Muslim brother!!!

Hugs and Kisses,
TMA